Keeping up with maintenance on your brakes is probably the most important job on any car. I always recommend you go through the procedure of removing the brake pads and discs every year. Even if you aren't changing them, the process of cleaning everything up and fitting it back together will ensure that everything is working in tiptop order all the time. Neglect your brakes and it can cost you a lot of extra money in the long run.

As you can see from the picture in this article, the build up of brake dust has caused one pad to seize, leaving the other pad to do all the work. This has meant that one pad and one side of the brake disc have worn down in double quick time, and now both must be replaced. Annoying as the other pad, and the other side of the disc have many more miles left in them.

Always read these instructions thoroughly and completely before starting work. This will prevent the inevitable happening, when half way through you realise you haven't got the neccessary tool or part required to complete the job.

Tools Required: M10 hex bit socket + breaker bar, Cooper grease, Axle stands, 1 cable tie (or string), torque wrench (capable of 40-45 lbl/ft).

1. Loosen the wheel nuts, jack the car up and support on axle stands. Then remove the wheel.

2. Undo the two caliper mounting bolts (see picture left). Care should be taken when removing these bolts as it is very easy to round them off. Certainly I wouldn't try the 'allen key and hammer approach', given the state of one of the bolts on a caliper of mine, left from the previous owner. I found the best method was an hex bit from a socket set, into a 3/8" to 1/2" socket convertor and then a foot long breaker bar. With some gentle leveraging back and forth I was able to undo both bolts without much fuss.

3. You should now be able to lever the caliper off the disc. This may take a little persuasion if the pads are held tight to the disc, or if there is a big lip on the edge of the disc. Once the caliper is free of the disc, support it. Never allow the caliper to dangle just on the hose, as this will damage the hose. I always cable tie around the brake pad retaining bolt, to a suspension arm.

4. Then it is simply a case of removing the disc. The disc is simply held on by the caliper and the wheel, so there are no more bolts to remove. The disc may, however, be stuck to the hub quite tightly. I always find it best to get a soft mallet and just gently tap the disc off the wheel studs, taking care not to twist it too much and damage the thread on the wheel studs.

5. Once removed it is prudent to clean up the mating surface of the drive flange, and apply some cooper grease. Take care not to get grease on the friction surfaces of the disc or pads.

6. Refitting is just a case of reversal of removal. You may need to push the pads/pistons back into the caliper in order to get the caliper back on to the disc. Remove the cap of the brake fluid resevoir and either watch for spillage, ready with rags, or soak up some brake fluid with kitchen roll if you think it will spill over.

7. Ensure the spring washers are on the bolts and tighten to 40-45 lbl/ft.

8. Pump the brake pedal to return the pads to the disc, all whilst keeping an eye on the fluid level in the resevoir.

9. Refit the wheel.